I secretly love the Bywater. It’s that cool, hip place that’s laid back (but not lazy) and folks like the finer things in life. Wine, art, poolside living. So I decided, what better to do then dip my pinky toe into the (By)water?
Morning
Elizabeth’s Restaurant
Two words: praline bacon. That’s all I needed to read before deciding this was the space for me. If you’re into waffles, the duck waffle is the special; thicker than most because it’s made with cornbread. I got the bananas foster stuffed French toast. Not sure if this is the part of the morning where I went into a food coma. The decor is funky and colorful, with lots of reminders from local folk artist Dr. Bob (more on him later) to “Be Nice or Leave.”
The outside has murals that describes the food inside, and there’s plenty of seating upstairs and downstairs. If you’re coming on a weekend morning, be prepared for a wait. This place is known for its brunch, and there’s consistently a crowd waiting no matter if its festival season or not. As for parking, there’s lots of it. You can hit up the lot for Crescent Park across the street. Prices range from $11-$30.
GOOOOOD MORNINGGGG pic.twitter.com/4qmfJ4hXGp
— Very Local New Orleans (@verylocalnola) May 10, 2019
Crescent Park
Back in 2006, I used to work at the now-defunct Poland Avenue military base and at least three times a week I would run along the river for exercise. Back then, it was a vast road of nothing. So, imagine my surprise when I crossed the “Rusty Rainbow” to find a whole new world. A park, workout spots, a garden. They do have access via elevator toward one end of the park for those that need it. It’s also a terrific spot to check out fireworks for the Fourth of July or to ring in the new year.
The park regularly offers free fitness classes from 5:45-6:45 p.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and if you just want to run, it encompasses 1.4 miles and 20 acres. Click here for more information on the park and upcoming events.
Satsuma Cafe
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The Friday I decided to explore the Bywater, a morning storm rolled through. I decided to take shelter at Satsuma Cafe, a funky eatery and coffee shop that makes its own pressed juice. It wasn’t empty, but wasn’t packed to the brim — just enough people to be busy. Lots of other people had their laptops out, working as well. The cafe offers plenty of breakfast options. Their Satsuma Breakfast featured fresh fruits, toats of a biscuit, black beans and bacon. I ordered the iced coffee, and you can add your own creamer and simple syrup at the bar.
Parent pro tip: The bathroom here is spacious and had an actual changing table. Read as: a wooden one that you’d have at your house, not the flimsy plastic ones at the mall.
Frady’s One Stop
This neighborhood corner store might look a little shabby on the outside, but on the inside, the muffelattas and po-boys are legit. If you’re looking for a sit-down experience, this isn’t it, but if you want a Big Shot, chips and a killer sandwich, look no further. Price range: under $10.
Afternoon
Studio Be
A short walk from Satsuma Cafe is Studio Be, a 35,000-square-foot warehouse featuring huge works of art by celebrated artist Brandan “BMike” Odums. It’s one thing to see his murals around town or even across the country, but to be in a space fully curated by the artist is a totally different experience. Much of his work speaks on social issues, like incarceration, police and community relations and day-to-day interactions in life. It’s easy to get lost in the giant paintings. His work with spray paint and graffiti is simply stunning, striking and moving.
Euclid Records
Surrounded by Crescent Park and Pizza Delicious, this cool little vinyl collecting joint can be overwhelming at first. However, the staff is easy to approach and won’t treat you like a record novice, even if you are. Sometimes, there are even live bands performing at the shop. Spend a little time flipping through the current and classic collections. Rare finds and slick variants spun with a knowledgeable staff make this a must for music lovers. Click here to read more about what makes this store stand out from other record shops in town.
Dr. Bob’s Folk Art
You’ve seen his art; Dr. Bob’s famous “Be Nice or Leave” signs are in almost every business in the city. But if you’re lucky, you’ll catch him in the studio itself, and talking to this artist is a treat. His studio has been in the Bywater since the ’90s, and Dr. Bob is a living history of the art and culture his work reflects. Everywhere you look inside is crammed with framed art and work he has on display. Looking at some of the larger pieces will keep you entranced at the intricacies of the detail. And speaking with him is a whole event. He has stories and sage advice from his past that are as captivating as his paintings. Click here to read more about him.
Evening
Capulet
Opened in 2018, Capulet is a bar/cool space to work remotely, which is settled next to (surprise!) a co-working space. There’s passion behind the capulet and it’s a jewel of the neighborhood. The building was saved by people in the neighborhood after the city threatened to tear it down when the failing facade fell in the street. During the day, it’s a cool spot to grab a sandwich and get some work done. At night, the bar transforms into an event space, hosting banquets and parties. Happy hour is Thursday, 3-8 p.m. They have roof access depending on the event and it gives a unique and rarely seen high view of the Bywater neighborhood.
Bacchanal
Fine, it’s one of those destination places you’ll see on every “must-do” list. But I’ve been here quite a few times and it’s a unique experience every time I step inside. Part wine store, part restaurant, part live music venue, Bacchanal offers all the ingredients for a night on the town tucked into the corner pocket of Poland and Dauphine streets. You can easily spend a couple hours here, sipping wine with your friends or on a date. It’s got all the elements for a good time. As a way to wind down the evening, you simply can’t go wrong here. And a Blue Bike rack is nearby so you can go carless if you want to take a sweet summer ride home after the fun.
I only had a day to explore the Bywater, but I loved the laid-back energy and free spirited vibe of this neighborhood. I’m sure I missed a few gems, so tell me about them so I can visit at [email protected].
